Italy’s northern lakes like Como, Garda and Maggiore may shine on social media, but the Alpine lakes of France, equally picturesque but with an understated elegance, offer a refreshing – and less crowded – alternative.
When my sister suggested Lake Como for a 40th birthday trip together, I hesitated. Sure, the photos on social media of shimmering waters, glamorous villas and lakeside espressos are seductive, but the volume of these images also belies an unfortunate reality: Italy’s northern lakes are inundated with tourists. I wondered, where could we go in Europe to experience the same charm, history and glamour, minus the cafe queues and lakefront crowds. Enter: France’s Alpine lakes.
Lake Annecy was already on my radar. Its eponymous town, located at the top of the lake, is often referred to as the “Venice of France” for its picturesque canals – a promising comparison, if perhaps overused. The historic old town that wraps around its 16th-Century cathedral is postcard-worthy, with labyrinthine alleyways, cobbled streets and colourful townhouses crisscrossed by the canals and the River Thiou. In the spring and summer, bright blooms along the waterways are experienced in double, reflected in the surface below. Charm? Check. History? Check. Glamour? Well, it may not have the Clooneys, but there are plenty of lavish chateaus and castles scattered around the lake, some of which you can stay the night in.
But what brings this region even closer to my sister’s Italian lake fantasy is that Annecy isn’t the only body of water around. Here, the Alps have birthed four sparkling lakes – Leman, Annecy, Bourget and le petit, Aiguebelette – each with enchanting towns and trails dotting the perimeter. I knew I was on to something but would need to speak to locals to know for sure.
“I love swimming in these lakes. I think swimming in that mountain water is absolutely spectacular,” said Richard Hoskisson on the phone, sending me into a reverie of floating under a bright summer sun, deeply inhaling that clean mountain air. Hoskisson is a travel expert living in the south of France who frequently visits his sister on Lake Leman, Annecy’s neighbour to the north (known to the Swiss as Lake Geneva). “The water is just this blue that I haven’t seen in Como or Garda. It’s just wonderful to swim in.”
Speaking to Hoskisson and others convinced me to expand our trip beyond Annecy to include Leman and Bourget. The easiest point of entry to the region is Switzerland’s Geneva International Airport. The Geneva/Leman lakefront is 60% Swiss, 40% French, and crossing the checkpoints at the border is fuss-free. “When you are crossing the borders between Switzerland and France, there are [usually] no checks,” Hoskisson explained. “You basically just drive along the road and all of a sudden you’re in another country.”
Upon landing, it’s easy to reach France’s spa town of Évian-les-Bains by train (via this handy app) or catch a ferry along Lake Leman. Though famous today for its upmarket bottled-water export, Évian’s mineral springs and thermal spas have made it a popular wellness destination for centuries. I knew my design-obsessed sister would love the town’s Belle Époque charm, exemplified by the historic Buvette Cachat building, a mid-19th Century tasting parlour for tourists to sample the town’s famous waters; and the Palais Lumière, formerly the Hydrotherapy Institute, which opened in 1902 as a spa and now serves as an exhibition and cultural centre with a major historical archive.
A 15-minute drive away is the town of Thonon-les-Bains, where locals recommend riding the funicular for expansive views across the village, harbour and lake. You can take a train here, but Mohd Rizwan, director of luxury travel company Travelosei, recommends renting a car in Évian as “the most flexible way to explore the rest of the route along the lakes.” For instance, having a car makes it easy to visit Moulin de Léré, a sustainably minded, Michelin-starred restaurant housed in a charming 17th Century mill amid pine-forested peaks. Beyond its fairy-tale location, chef Frédéric Molina and his wife Irene Gordejuela serve up some seriously authentic regional flavours derived from a deep commitment to hyper-local sourcing – think pasta with fresh goat cheese, fish sourced straight from Leman and a wild strawberry dessert.
From Thonon, Hoskisson recommends the medieval town of Yvoire, renowned as much for the extraordinary quaintness of its ivy-strewn stone townhouses as for boasting one of the most beautiful gardens in all of France – Le Jardin des Cinq Sens, where each perfectly manicured section is designed to engage one or more of the five senses. I imagined lingering over a Champagne breakfast at Yvoire’s hotel, Villa Cécile, enjoying one last, longing look over Leman as my sister and I mapped our route ahead.
Not that the other lakes could possibly disappoint. According to Carole Cailloux, founder of local lifestyle magazine MokaMag, who lives in Annecy, “Cycling around [Lake Annecy] is a beautiful way to discover the area, and you can stop at small beaches like Menthon-Saint-Bernard or Talloires.” She added that the 42km route is easy to do in a day with regular stops to replenish all those calories you burn. “For the gourmets, Les Délices de Manon offers incredible macarons in Annecy. The cheeses from Fromagerie Pierre Gay are a delight, and the Philippe Rigollot Pâtissier & Chocolatier is an absolute must-visit.”
It’s got that kind of grandeur that I would associate with the Italian lakes – Richard Hoskisson
Hoskisson also noted Menthon-Saint-Bernard as an essential stop in Annecy. “It’s got that kind of grandeur that I would associate with the Italian lakes,” he said, referring specifically to the imposing Chateau de Menthon, set high above Lake Annecy. “There are spectacular views across the lake and the mountains, and the chateau has such a rich history.” While in Menthon, he recommends booking a meal or overnight stay at the equally impressive Palace de Menthon, a lookalike of Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel.
“We call this region ‘the Riviera of the Alps’ because the definition of a riviera is a mountain that falls into water, as is the case on the Italian Riviera,” said Lorène Belotti, press officer for Aix-les-Bains Tourism, the most popular town on Lake Bourget.
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Bourget is France’s largest and deepest freshwater body. Travellers can take a one-hour train from central Annecy to the town of Aix-les-Bains, or travel by car to facilitate a day trip to the emerald shores of Lac d’Aiguebelette and the picturesque town of Chambéry (described as “France’s most Italian town”), both less than 30 minutes away. Bourget shares a similar royal nostalgia with its Italian counterparts, having previously lured the likes of Queen Victoria, Empress Sisi, the Aga Khan and others. Today, it remains a popular, if less regal, resort town with waters that change colour according to the mood of the mountains, a series of serene spas overlooking the lake and plenty of water sports on offer.
Belotti recommends something called “packrafting” to explore Bourget. “It’s an inflatable kayak that fits into a backpack, so you can mix hiking on the wild coast of the lake and kayaking on the water after enjoying a picnic in a cove… a dream!”
These lakes share similarities with Lake Como or Lake Maggiore, but [they have] a more sporty and active dimension – Carole Cailloux
“What I love the most (about this region) is you can be as active as you want,” added Mohd. “You can go hiking, boating, even paragliding – or simply relax and stroll the small towns.” It’s a sentiment also shared by Cailloux. “These lakes share similarities with Lake Como or Lake Maggiore, but [they have] a more sporty and active dimension,” she said. In fact, it’s this combination of natural beauty and opportunities for adventure that makes Cailloux fall in love with the region every day.
Perhaps it’s their proximity to the major fashion metropolis of Milan, but there is something inherently showy about the Italian lakes, as if they were destined for the Instagram spotlight. By comparison, seeing Leman, Annecy and Bourget through the eyes of locals conveyed the same understated elegance that the French are so famous for. They’re the lower-maintenance complement to Italy’s flashy opulence.
Now thoroughly convinced, my sister and I are packing our bags for eastern France. Yet this whole experience has me thinking, where else in this world have we overlooked in favour of the overly documented destinations in our feeds.
I, for one, intend to find out.
Source: www.bbc.com
